A love affair

Watch out! Mama has a fever that can only be cured with pain des amis. Here is her story: "OMG! Within these walls as I cut into this bread and took in the aroma of this fresh, baked bread, I couldn't wait to bite into it. I was so excited about what I was smelling then I took a bite and I could no longer help myself! Mmmmmmmmm, Mmmmmmmmm, and Mmmmmmmmmmmmm. Sort of embarrassing, I hope our neighbors upstairs couldn't hear me! With every bite, I took a sniff, I took another bite and sniffed. I was so enjoying this bread and trying to figure it out, it had swept me off my feet. I kept wanting more. This bread is like no other! The crust, the fluffy inside; all so perfect. I dissected it, bit into the crust alone, bit into the inside alone....no, it would be a sin to break it up. I gave up trying to figure out the flavors, I decided to just sit there and just enjoy what I had in front of me, continued with my love-making moans as I cherished this moment. Yes, it was that good! I was having an affair with this bread!! Paris is a romantic city, romance everywhere; never did I think my rendezvous would be with bread!"

Say it isn't so

Today is our final full day in Paris. Actually, it is our final full day of our trip. Something just doesn't seem right about this. Mama looks forward to sleeping in her bed, driving her car, and spending time with daddy and the dogs. I just look forward to running and seeing g. But if we didn't have those men in our lives, or some of the daily comforts we've grown accustomed to, we would have no problem staying put. Right where we are. In Paris. Yesterday we paid our respects to the Arc de Triomphe and the Louvre. But you know how me and mama are...we planned our trip to the louvre on the day it was closed. Closed means less people, which then means more pictures without strangers IN them. No, friends, not once did we walk through a museum on this trip. We feel we learned more about the people and culture by living with them...in cafes, at the boulangerie, in shops. Or at least that's what we tell ourselves. I can't go without telling you about mama's rendezvous with a treat of her own...the pain de Amis from the boulangerie around the corner. I mentioned in an earlier post that we happen to stay in an apartment right around the corner from one of the voted best boulangeries in Paris, Du Pain Des Idees. Its story is very inspiring, something I will share in a future post. The head baker created a bread, pain des Amis, which translates to "bread of friendship" and it is apparently well known throughout. We now know why. I will post photos of it as soon as I get back to the states, and I'll let mama post about her experience devouring it. I couldn't possibly relay to you how she felt while eating it. But it was, pardon me, damn good! Surely, we'll take some for a snack on the plane ride home. Today, on our final day, we plan to take it easy and capture every last bit of our surroundings. More pain des Amis will be eaten, my last Pierre Herme maccarroon will be savored, final photos will be taken, and a goodbye will be said to Monsiuer Eiffel. I want to end this post with a few things I will miss about this city (and trip in general): spending lazy mornings with mama at the breakfast table; the ease of riding the metro; watching people carry - and eat - their daily baguettes; picturesque parks all around; hearing mama butcher "bonjour;" the ease and freedom of living; being amazed by the small things...bread, wine, treats; oh, and of course, the treats! Most of all, I'm going to miss the quality time I've shared with mama these past few weeks. Traveling does something to a relationship, and although I didn't thinks ours could get better than it already was, it did. Here's to the loveliest trip with the most inspiring woman I know. We'll be seeing you in the States.

Round two

So mama and I love eggs. And you know my thing with treats. And then we can't get enough of r&r in picturesque parks. Naturally, all of this adds up to round two: doing things a second time. Yesterday, we decided to take a "day off" and revisit some of the places we loved. We headed to Saint-Germain Des Pres for another egg lunch at Coco & Co, and again, we left completely satisfied. Mama had her eggs florentine, and I tried the omelette with tomato confit and salmon. No empty stomachs or sad faces here. Our next round two stop was the Luxembourg garden. Sat under some trees, did a little writing, and followed some pigeons on their merry route. Perfect way to spend a beautiful afternoon. And then there was my treat. Yes, people, I returned to Pierre Herme for more indulgence. But seriously, though, how do you have a treat from Pierre during the middle of your trip and not end it with that same perfection? You don't! And that's why I walked in, ordered my macarroons for the last days of our trip, and not once doubted my decision. Who says you can't be a regular on vacation? We'll try to be a little more exciting next time.

Through mama's eyes

Every now and then, my dearest friend Emma features a guest blogpost on her blog. It is a space for someone special to share his/her ideas, story, voice. Since this trip is just as much mama's as it is mine, I thought this would be the perfect time to read about her perspective, see Paris through her eyes. So without further ado, here's a little somethin' somethin' from mama... "As our days here are coming to an end, I'm starting to feel sad. I have become one of millions who can now say, "i love Paris!" This city is beautiful along with its people and language. How I wish I could speak French. I've had the best trip anyone could have. I have the best traveling partner; Erica the planner, the researcher; all I've had to do is follow her around. She has mastered the metro system, I just have to make sure she doesn't have too much wine! The challenge is having energy and stamina to keep up with her. Imagine trying to keep up with someone who jogs everyday. She has been running me ragged! Have I lost any pounds? Unfortunately not, I feel like I've swelled up not so much because of the food, (the food here is another story) but it's been surprisingly warm. Thank goodness for band aides! My feet have been abused. Last night we had a wonderful dinner at a place called, "Les Cocottes de Christain Constant". It's a popular place so we had to arrive early before it opened for dinner. There was already a line forming, dinners are served in these little Staub pots, the atmosphere is contemporary with community type sitting, small and quaint. I had the lemon chicken and Erica had the lamb. We had a couple of glasses of wine. It was a great dinner, I'll let Erica describe for you. We timed it perfectly before our walk to the Eiffel Tower for the lighting. We were both so excited to see this, aside from having a bit of a buzz (we're both light weights) we walked over to where we would find a spot among hundreds of others and wait with anticipation. I thought about this special moment while I saw how happy this beautiful child of mine was, I enjoyed seeing her excitement. I thought about our journey here... We had been through so much these last couple of years. I thought about Marcus, his love and support. This became an emotional moment especially when it finally became dark and lights came on and twinkled all up and down the tower. What a magnificent sight. I can't explain the beauty of this place. You have to experience it yourself, this is truly a wonderful place to visit. Although if it were up to Erica, she could easily make Paris her home. We have made the most of this trip each day, we have experienced life here along side the Parisians. Ok, let's talk about some irritating stuff..... Smoking! These people smoke like chimneys, from morning til night. Our lungs must be black by now. Being stuffed in the metro with hot, sticky, smelly people sucks! One day we made the mistake of using the metro during rush hour, have I mentioned it's been in the high 70's low 80's? Anyways, so we get squeezed inside this metro; bodies touchy, people breathing in your face, skin hot and wet from sweat. Sweat coming down people's face, getting the picture? Then, lucky me I get the stinkiest armpit in my face!!! I thought I was going to die, no where to go! This had to be my worst experience here. Do people not shower? One day Erica came out of the metro with some sort of goop/snot/semen on her blouse, yuk! I ended up catching the sniffles, I wonder why? Bathrooms, where are the public bathrooms! It would be nice to have an app for the location of public "toilettes"! Stairs inside the metro stations, they could use some escalators. Sad to see women with trying to carry strollers or baggage up at least 25 stairs. Yes, I did count! A young gentleman helped us with ours when we first arrived. Some people are courteous, but for the most part, people keep to themselves. I was a proud mama, when I saw Erica give up her seat to an elderly lady. This place could use more of that. Some of the nice things about Paris.... How people get together at the St Martin Canal or the Seine River in the evenings with friends, boyfriend or girlfriend; they take their bottle of wine, six pack of beer and just hang out, not to mention the smoking! No problems, just a good time in the evenings. The French people are very nice, most speak English. I've had a very positive experience. This has been a dream come true, thank you Lord for keeping us safe!"

A quickie

Friends, this is going to be a quickie, even though what I'm about to describe was by no means a quickie. I just couldn't contain myself and had to post about the dark chocolate macarroon i just ate - or rather, savored - from Pierre Herme. Now, I'm no maccarroon coniessieur, but if I had to judge the components that made the perfect maccarroon, I'd say just try one from Pierre. The outside, light and airy...no force needed when taking a bite. The middle, rich and velvety...melting at first touch of the tongue. This particular maccarroon was the large size, about the size of the palm. Actually, it was "Erica size" when it comes to treats. At first bite, I experienced the madness again...the feeling of being blown over by some grand force. Oh, Seduction, you evil tiger. What could have been eaten in 5 minutes was savored for some of the best 25 minutes of my life. Okay, I may be exaggerating a little, but let me tell you, it was THAT good. Okay, I'm off for now, but I'll be back for a regular post later. Until then, au revoir.

Pardon me for being x-rated

Let me preface by saying this post may be a little provocative - raunchy, if you will. But before you go, let me explain. Mama and I just finished eating the best - yes, people, the BEST - desserts we've ever eaten in our lives. If I may be so bold, it was orgasm in the form of taste. Between the moans and finger-licking, you'd think something intimate was going on. Nope, it was just me and mama savoring every last bit of our desserts from Pierre Herme, the "Chanel" of dessert places. Standing in line, choosing our prey, was like browsing through Tiffany...only better! Picture-perfect desserts were lined in glass cases, with the employees dressed in suits. When it was my turn to order, I froze. What in the heck do you order at a place like that? So I did what any menstruating girl would do...I ordered 4 desserts! For mama, a strawberry and pistachio tart. For me, a mille feuille (layers of hazelnut cream, dark chocolate, and custard between sheets of pastry), a large chocolate macarroon, and 4 small macarroons (dark chocolate; peach, apricot and saffron; rose petal; and chocolate caramel). The latter have yet to be eaten. Okay, enough of the dessert fornification. Before our treats, we ate lunch at a place I had been eager to try...Coco & Co. A tiny hole-in-the-wall, this place is all about eggs. Omelettes, scrambled, oven-baked...you name it. After choosing the preparation, you choose the ingredients you want mixed in. And the best part...the eggs are French-prepared, which i believe, have been perfected. Mama ordered eggs florentine and I chose scrambled with salmon, eggplant, and basil. Again, it was food orgasm, only this time contained since we were in public. We strolled to the Luxembourg gardens and people-watched, then made our way to the Tuileries gardens for more relaxation. Yes, there is pattern forming here...walk, eat, sit in a park, then walk to the next place we're going to eat. Life here is good. BUT hold the phone! I haven't even told you about our love affair with the Eiffel tower yesterday. Mama and I packed our picnic of baguette, salami, artichokes, and fruit, and made our way to the Madame (in our case, Monsieur). When we exited the metro, we began walking in the direction of the tower's tip. But walking aside tall buildings, you lose site of the tower and begin guessing where to turn. I warned mama that it will take just one turn of a corner, and the tower will be there, posed in full site. And that's exactly what happened. Mama gasped. My heart sank. It was like falling in love all over again. We planted ourselves under a tree and anchored the site deep within our hearts. As we sat there, picnicking with the Eiffel tower in front, i felt like I could just die in that moment. On one side of me, i have this masterpiece of a tower, and on the other side, i have my best friend. (And then of course, a hunk of fresh baguette). It was a dream.

Oh, Paris, you tickle me so

Greetings from my home away from home, Paris. I know it's only my second time here, but it really feels like a home to me. The morning after mama's birthday, we said arrivederci to Italy and made our way to paris. Thanks to some advice from the French woman sitting next to me on the plane, we navigated our way through the airport and metro, and made it in one piece to our apartment in the 10th arrondissement. Tucked away in a neighborhood off the busy track, our apartment is Parisian at its humblest. Loft bed, wood floors, tiled kitchen, it is perfect for our stay. And not to mention, around the corner from one of the highest recommended boulangeries - Du Pain et des Idees. You better believe we paid our boulanger a visit the first morning for some freshly baked - and might I say, whole grain - bread. Heaven on earth, the light of day all around, it was that good! Paris is exactly how I remembered it...trendy people, proud food, progressive at a modest pace. Streets lined with cafes and brasseries, people eating and drinking into the late night. Picnics with open wine bottles in parks. And some of the most stylish toddlers I've ever come across. After our leisure breakfast of pain, tea, and fruit, we decided to walk for a while. We stumbled upon an open air market, where we bought some salami, marinated artichokes, and fresh fruit juice. Without any idea where we were, we continued walking until our surroundings became very familiar...we reached the exact location where Rilee and I met Emma on our backpacking trip. Of course, I had to show mama where we stayed when we visited Emma, and it was at that moment when everything felt just so right. My heart felt warm and tender, a feeling of being lovesick. Since the temperature was stifling outside, we thought it was a good time for lunch. Off the main path, we lunched at Rose Bakery, a place I was eager to try ever since Gino bought the famous Rose Bakery Cookbook. Let's just say now I know why it's famous. Fresh, local ingredients, everything homemade, simple and delicious food. Fully satisfied, we walked to Notre Dame for our dose of picture-taking. Again, don't count on us telling you any historical significance of the place...watch the movie with Esemerelda, instead. Mama was stunned by the Seine and its bridges...I couldn't get enough of watching her admire them. Exhausted, we headed back by foot (note to self, don't let mama judge distances) to our apartment, recharged, and took the metro back to Notre Dame. Mama insisted we take a boat tour on the Seine, and although against my beliefs about tours, I said what the heck. And so we boarded a boat as the sun was setting (9 pm), and admired the city around us. Then, then, then, we laid eyes upon her, the beauty. The Eiffel tower! It was love all over again. Mama was in disbelief at her beauty, it was a precious site. Now I could go on and on forever about our first day in Paris, but I need to control myself. I will end with this: a.) if Mother Flow ever follows you internationally, make sure you're in Paris...with bread and chocolate and treats, you'll forget she's around; b.) come on, Los Angeles, let's take some pointers from Paris and adopt the metro system; and finally c.) it feels great to be back!

One year younger in Italy

Happy birthday to mama! I don't think there is a better way to celebrate this day, than to be in the heart of Italy doing the things we love to do...together. This morning, we bid adieu to San Gimignano, and trekked back to Florence. This time, with a working GPS and rest. Our last day in that medieval town was just what we needed. Woke up at almost 10 am (thanks to the night rain) and started off fresh. Staying in San Gimignano for a few days was the right choice for us...we met local craftsmen, ate a variety of traditional meals, and really got to know the town. But please don't ask us anything about its history...we have yet to step foot in a museum! That can be saved for the history enthusiasts. One of our goals was to only buy things that were either unique to the area or handmade. And we did just that. We stopped by a little shop, where a jewelry craftsman worked ever so diligently. I should put an emphasis on "craftsman" because he was just that - Matteo molded, banged, and shined all of these handmade pieces into beautiful works of art. He shared his story, while shining his pride. We were so happy to have walked out with some personal jewelry...a couple of times! I can't go without mentioning our last lunch in San Gimignano. The owner of our b&b recommended a hole-in-the-wall down an alley, La Mangiatoia. We shared a dish of marinated artichokes, sauted spinach, and the feasted on a traditional Tuscan bread soup - more of a stew, if you will. Comfort to my soul. Now we are back in Florence, exploring more of the city before we make our way to Paris tomorrow. I made dinner reservations at the same restaurant Tommasso and Alessandro treated me and Rilee to when we were on our backpacking trip. It's out of the city, near the plaza where we will get our last view of the duomo at night. Again, I couldn't be more thankful to spend this day with mama, as she turns one year younger! See you in (sigh) Paris!

on wine, strolls, and homemade meals

Hello again, from the farmhouse in San Gimignano! I apologize in advance if this post seems a little on the lazy side.. It's just after eating a lunch, prepared by the grandmother/owner of this b&b, on a chilly and cloudy day, you can understand why I may come across a bit sluggish. And who wouldn't be after homemade tagliatelle with boar ragu, bruschetta, and a salad similar to that of a nicoise salad? Yeah, you get the idea. Yesterday, mama and I enjoyed a lazy morning sipping cafe latte and tea in the plaza, where of course, the best people-watching happens. Now there's one thing I just can't wrap my mind around...eating gelato before 11 am. Is it a tourist thing? Is it the new "breakfast of champions?" and why in the heck are gelaterias even open that early? Please, just show me where I can find some bran and Greek yogurt! Midday, we hit the road again for a trip to Chianti. Between my phone, a few maps, and the gps that now works, we made it in one piece. I can't even describe in words what the drive was like...just imagine rolling hills, vineyard after vineyard, and poppy-lined roads. It was bliss. Once we reached the winery we planned on visiting, we did a little wine-tasting. And I walked out with the loveliest wine of the region...and a buzz. Oh, big news! Mama likes red wine...the drier the better! We plan to open this baby up on a picnic in Paris. After wine tasting, we had some lunch to soak up the alcohol before heading back to San Gimignano. The rest of the day was filled with strolls, picture-taking, cafe lattes...repeat. Today, after this monstrous lunch, we plan to catch up on postcards, browse, and pay our daily visit to the bakery for a hot drink and treat. It doesn't get better than that. Things to note: We decided that it would be nice to travel with two more people...it's impossible to indulge in wine knowing that mama has to be sober enough to drive and I have to be alert enough to navigate. Next time, we'll be the backseat passengers. My traveling bowel still isn't up to speed. No matter how much fruit, dairy, and water going into my system, my bowel refuses to cooperate. Thank you, dulcolax, for giving me a break. And last but not least, we may be coming back with the black lung, courtesy of Mr. Secondhand Smoke, but boy will be rested and satiated! Until we meet again, ciao.

baciami

...and we made it! here we are in the tuscan countryside, on day three of our trip. I know you are all quite familiar with those postcards and calendars of Italian vineyards and brick farmhouses...yeah, now picture me and mama sitting right in there, and that's exactly what we're doing right now. it's unbelievable. but I can't say it was all peaches and cream to get to this point. after a plane ride that seemed endless; navigating to Florence in a rental car with a gps that didn't work; driving through streets that were prohibited for driving; and climbing five flights of stairs to our b&b, all while being awake for over 36 hours, we were more than thrilled to be at our first destination in the heart of florence. we spent a day and a half walking through the city, stopping for a picture of this building and that alleyway. and of course, with mama around, you can count on us browsing through shops. I did my share of stopping for gelato (Grom is a must) mingling in the fruit stands, and keeping an eye out for dinner spots. and, boy, did we do well! some mentionable highlights: Mama being charmed by the Italian at the formaggeria while he distracted me with some aged parmigiano reggiano.i just thought to myself as he kissed mama on the cheek, geez, would you like some cheese with that ham? Leather jackets...yep, we got them! Keeping up with tradition...I got myself a haircut. Waking up to breakfast at our door, and savoring it with the duomo right outside the window. Perfect. After a good night's sleep and breakfast, we got back on the road to our next destination, San Gimignano. Driving in the countryside was far easier than fighting the rush in the city. Our b&b is in the center of a medieval town, snug in the hillside of Tuscan countryside. Breathtaking. We will be here for the next five days, just taking it all in. It's only our third day, and we already feel like we've been here for three weeks...but in the greatest way possible. We just finished breakfast in the garden of the main farmhouse, and later we plan to explore the village. Unfortunately, I'm not ale to post photos (maybe because I'm using the iPad?) but I will try to keep you posted through writing instead. When we get back to the states, you can count on a post dedicated to photos only! Until we meet again, ciao.

see you on the other side

and so we're off! well, technically, mama and i will be off and on our way to the other side of the sea tomorrow morning. wish us luck as we navigate through foreign land, fill our stomachs with all things delectable, and defeat my traveling nemesis...constipation.

i will try to update this site while we're abroad, but if i lag a few days, please forgive me. this trip is about me and my mama living.

so until then, ciao! au revoir! we'll see you on the other side!

what dreams may come

today was a most lovely saturday. after a lounge-a-roo this morning, g and i paid a visit to the fish market to stock up for the day's lunch.

and then we prepared it. windows opened, letting the santa monica sea breeze in.

and then we set the table outside and ate. a crisp afternoon wine to pair.

and in between bites and sips, we chatted. sweet sun poking in and out of faint clouds. and all we could think about was how perfect it seemed to do just what we were doing: shop at the market for the freshest goods, prepare and linger over a humble meal, all while setting the tone for the rest of the day with a glass of wine. 

and then we thought, wow, that's exactly what most of the world already does. 

so we decided we will strive to incorporate this kind of living into our weeks. and as i journey off to where they do it best, i hope to bring back some great habits. eat, drink, and be merry, gosh darn it.

counting down

at 9:30 am, one week from today, mama and i will be snugged tight in a plane to europe. EUROPE! specifically, to the tuscan region outside florence and - sigh - paris. for three weeks, we will forget our responsibilities at home, pay no heed to the restrictive budget, and let loose. and i'm judging by the significant amounts of wine that will inevitably enter our systems, it will be quite easy to do the latter.

you have no idea how excited i am for this trip. yes, it's three weeks out of the country, but it's so much more than that. it's time for us to do what we do best: linger over treats; sit, talk walk...repeat; people-watch; (window) shop; and relax. it's our first trip as two women, two best friends transitioning forward. it's a celebration of mama, of her spirit, fight, and life.

before even stepping foot on foreign ground, i already know this trip will be significantly different from my backpacking trip four years ago. first, i'm traveling with a fox of a woman, a true bombshell. lord, give me strength to fight off those hungry latin men. second, i'm not backpacking, which means i can actually dress with some style. no more plain cotton tees and khaki shorts, day after day after live-long day. this time around, i have a more refined palate and knowledge base of wines, and i may be bold enough to say that i enjoy some cheeses. i also have a career now (i.e. i can spend without the fear of running out of money for the next train ride). oh, and hostel schomstel. long gone are the days of sharing rooms with fellow backpackers and their body odor (barcelona), messes (nice), and snoring (cordoba).

and, finally, there's sebastian, the dream lover i searched paris to find. four years ago, i committed myself to meeting this "dulcinea" of mine, this man who would sweep me off my feet. and if you recall, my heart was captured by paris instead, while deep down i knew that sebastian was real, somewhere. little did i know that i would meet my sebastian two years later while shopping for wine in los angeles. g has surely swept me off my feet and has exceeded any expectations i've ever had in a man. so for this trip, the search for sebastian will be non-existent. i can rest knowing my love is real.

with mama by my side, g in my heart, and the world before us, this trip will be one for the books. europe, you have no idea what's coming you way!

monday funday

today is monday funday. it's the day when g and i typically don't work. it's the day when we do something active, like hike or ride bikes. and it can easily be the day we don't do a single darn thing, except maybe a load of laundry or roasting a fish.

it's 8 am right now, and we have yet to decide what exactly we are going to do on this funday of ours. we do have dinner reservations at one of our favorite spots, lucques, but until then, it's just a matter of where the day leads us.

i know, i know what you're thinking...erica doesn't already have the day planned?  yes, dear friends, that is correct. considering this is our last monday funday before i leave for europe next week, i don't give a hoot about what we do.

i just look forward to spending the day with this guy

april dinner = winner!

g and i hosted our second dinner at the studio last saturday. you can read all about it here